Root's 64 Cyclone Build

[Boss/Cyclone]

Sorry to highjack your thread, and excuse my ignorance, but what is a residual valve? I ran all my lines on my 65 Cyclone, made brackets to use 2006 Mustang GT calipers and rotors, and just used an adjustable proportioning valve and nothing else. My brakes work great and are very responsive. I guess my lack of knowledge has not hurt me yet...lol

[A/FX]

Sorry to highjack your thread, and excuse my ignorance, but what is a residual valve? I ran all my lines on my 65 Cyclone, made brackets to use 2006 Mustang GT calipers and rotors, and just used an adjustable proportioning valve and nothing else. My brakes work great and are very responsive. I guess my lack of knowledge has not hurt me yet...lol

This will explain the valves better than I would be able to:
https://baer.com/Pressure-Residual-Valves.html
Jim

[Rootsy]

The residual valve is basically a check valve. When you release the pedal the valve shuts at the rated pressure leaving the line between it and the wheel cylinders as an example slightly pressurized (10 psi in this case). This holds the shoes from retracting too far from the drum so you don’t get the lag in responsiveness when you depress the pedal. As stated previously 2# is recommended for front disc.

If I think about it - it has to be a function of volume displacement vs pedal movement. A lot of people complain about pedal travel (soft pedal) with these systems.

[poboyjo65]

The residual valve is basically a check valve. When you release the pedal the valve shuts at the rated pressure leaving the line between it and the wheel cylinders as an example slightly pressurized (10 psi in this case). This holds the shoes from retracting too far from the drum so you don’t get the lag in responsiveness when you depress the pedal. As stated previously 2# is recommended for front disc.

If I think about it - it has to be a function of volume displacement vs pedal movement. A lot of people complain about pedal travel (soft pedal) with these systems.

So if you have a 10lb built in the MC & you add another 10lb would it be 20lb? or does it make a difference? whats the benefit of 2 of them?

I noticed in csrp's instructions they dont recommend vacuum bleeding. I wonder why?

[Rootsy]

They should not be additive in nature. No idea on vacuum bleeding.

[Rootsy]

If we can divert subjects for a moment… can anyone tell me if this clutch assy will work with a Z bar setup using a std 65 throw out lever and a new billet SVO flywheel? I keep seeing reference to having to use a Centerforce flywheel. I already assume I have to use the spacer under the throw out lever pivot.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ctf-kdf214814

I used this flywheel that uses dowels and M8 fasteners to secure the pressure plate.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fms-m-6375-a302b

[Boss/Cyclone]

If we can divert subjects for a moment… can anyone tell me if this clutch assy will work with a Z bar setup using a std 65 throw out lever and a new billet SVO flywheel? I keep seeing reference to having to use a Centerforce flywheel. I already assume I have to use the spacer under the throw out lever pivot.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ctf-kdf214814

I used this flywheel that uses dowels and M8 fasteners to secure the pressure plate.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fms-m-6375-a302b

I am using those exact pieces in my 66 Mustang. They work great. No spacer, just toss it in. My flywheel is very old, I worked at a Ford dealer when i was in college and bought the motorsports 157 tooth billet flywheel in 1989, bought the centerforce clutch around 2010. It all works together fine.

[Rootsy]

Thank you! Manufacturers couldn’t be much more vague in their advertisement and documentation…

[Rootsy]

Next question - driveshaft hoops. What is everyone using? Will they clear the parking brake cable assembly? I figure this is a good time to install with the car still on the spit.

[Lou's Comet]

Sorry to highjack your thread, and excuse my ignorance, but what is a residual valve? I ran all my lines on my 65 Cyclone, made brackets to use 2006 Mustang GT calipers and rotors, and just used an adjustable proportioning valve and nothing else. My brakes work great and are very responsive. I guess my lack of knowledge has not hurt me yet...lol

You have 4 wheel discs? If so you don't need a residual valve.

If you have front disc and rear drum brakes and a master cyl for disc/drum brake system you probably have a residual valve built into your master for the rear/drum.
Newer cars with the spring in the rear wheel cylinders don't need residual valve.

Only time you need residual on disc is when the master cyl is lower than calipers, like in a old truck/car with master under drivers floor.

This will explain residual for drum brakes

https://www.freeasestudyguides.com/resi ... valve.html

Lou

[A/FX]

Next question - driveshaft hoops. What is everyone using? Will they clear the parking brake cable assembly? I figure this is a good time to install with the car still on the spit.

Back in the day I had a Lakewood loop under my Comet, no issues with the parking brake. ( except that I did not like now low the loop as under the driveshaft)
This time around I fabricated my own loop from seamless tubing and redesigned the parking brake mechanism.
Yes, now is the time to install one.
Jim

[Rootsy]

Starting to mock a few things up since this car is going from 2 to 3 pedals. Realized today that I am missing the torsion spring around the pedal shaft that retracts the brake pedal I guess - saw it on one assembly in photos a while back - other assemblies don’t have it - so not sure if I need it or not. Maybe the master pushes the pedal back. For some reason my pedal support has no cage nuts and I am not sure what it originally had but assuming 3/8 cage nuts since there are square holes. I never realized the clutch actuation rod ran on such a downward angle either!

But hey I did install the column dust seal and reenforcement pieces! I do need one more fastener for it though. No intention of uninstalling it so woo hoo.



For driveshaft loop I am leaning toward this design and welding a pair of plates to the cross bar so I can bolt in rather than weld to the car

[A/FX]

Starting to mock a few things up since this car is going from 2 to 3 pedals. Realized today that I am missing the torsion spring around the pedal shaft that retracts the brake pedal I guess - saw it on one assembly in photos a while back - other assemblies don’t have it - so not sure if I need it or not. Maybe the master pushes the pedal back. For some reason my pedal support has no cage nuts and I am not sure what it originally had but assuming 3/8 cage nuts since there are square holes. I never realized the clutch actuation rod ran on such a downward angle either!

But hey I did install the column dust seal and reenforcement pieces! I do need one more fastener for it though. No intention of uninstalling it so woo hoo.



For driveshaft loop I am leaning toward this design and welding a pair of plates to the cross bar so I can bolt in rather than weld to the car

I am not familiar with a torsion spring on the brake pedal shaft. My pedal just swings free when the master cylinder pushrod is not installed.
That driveshaft loop should work just fine, bolting it in makes sense. I welded threaded bungs in to the subframe connectors and fabricated flanges that are welded to the tubing so removing the loop it is simple.
Jim

[Rootsy]

Correct me if I’m wrong but for a manual floor shift car the small tube in the steering column used for auto / 3 on the tree is omitted correct?

[A/FX]

Correct me if I’m wrong but for a manual floor shift car the small tube in the steering column used for auto / 3 on the tree is omitted correct?

The small hole is for the clutch rod. The auto/ 3 speed had an internal tube that ended with a lever(s) outside of the passenger area.
Jim