Root's 64 Cyclone Build

[Rootsy]

Right. My car was originally an auto. So I have the tube. Just making sure I don’t need it for some reason since I am going 4 speed.

To use the open tracker roller Z bar kit, you need to remove the Z bar actuation rod pin on the clutch pedal. Does that thing just press out or do I need to fire up the mill?

[A/FX]

Right. My car was originally an auto. So I have the tube. Just making sure I don’t need it for some reason since I am going 4 speed.

To use the open tracker roller Z bar kit, you need to remove the Z bar actuation rod pin on the clutch pedal. Does that thing just press out or do I need to fire up the mill?

I believe you can just grind the flush end of the pin and drive it out using a drift. Or just grind the pin off with a small grinder, faster than setting it up in a mill, although a mill would be the best route.
Jim

[Rootsy]

Putting suspension back together and instead of re-using my original strut rods I was looking to move to adjustable. No intention of aggressive driving outside of a straight line now and then so with that has anyone used these? Much more affordable than the fully adjustable bling.

[A/FX]

Putting suspension back together and instead of re-using my original strut rods I was looking to move to adjustable. No intention of aggressive driving outside of a straight line now and then so with that has anyone used these? Much more affordable than the fully adjustable bling.

They will no doubt work but they lack the steering stop that a stock Comet has. This can be remedied by using Mustang parts or fabricating a pair. I fabricated mine because of the strut rods I used and the fabricated spindles that the strut suspension has.
Jim

[Rootsy]

Have a pair I harvested from the junker I got my steering box from. Just need to clean them up. I had to trim half of the steering stop away on my original 1 piece.

[Rootsy]

Just about done putting the front end back together. Decided to add adjustable strut rods and they will be here Monday. After putting the springs in the 1 1/8” away bar I bought 25 years ago hits the strut rods at full suspension droop. Plus the end links end of severely splayed outward.

Any recommendations for a replacement bar? I am using Moog poly end links.















Clutch assy arrived the other day too - HAPPY HALLOWEEN!

[Jims65cyclone]

Lookin' good! Did you use the struts that didn't have the steering stops? What's your plan for sway bar interference and splay? What was the sway bar originally intended for?

Jim

[A/FX]

Everything is looking good! Nice detail.
I maybe all wet here but is it possible that the sway bar is in upside down? The bends just look wrong. At least from the angle the picture was taken from. I know that the tread width of an early Mustang is slightly wider than a Comet and that no one makes a Comet sway bar, they offer the Mustang unit as a replacement so that is why the links are at an angle.
Here is mine, it is a Mustang replacement sway bar, the clearance to the strut rod is minimal but it does clear.
By the way I have tried to bend a sway bar in a 20 ton press hoping to gain more clearance, the bar is like spring, steel it will not bend.
Jim

[Rootsy]

Lookin' good! Did you use the struts that didn't have the steering stops? What's your plan for sway bar interference and splay? What was the sway bar originally intended for?

Jim

Yes on struts but I have the ones from a car I harvested that I will use.

For bar I am sure was billed for this car but other than that I do not recall.

[poboyjo65]

you really wont know about interference until you get the weight on & tighten it all down the end links & all. need to have weight on before you tighten it all & LCA's.

Plus it wont droop that low with the shocks on . they get close but articulate together . It all looks great!

I wouldn't worry about it yet. I had concerns at that point & the angles looked off but when you get it at ride height should be good . so if you wheelie it might get close or touch but who cares? the landing will be worse!

[Rootsy]

When i mocked if up the the other day with the suspension pretty much neutral the bar was within 1/8” of the strut rod. Itjust seems wrong.

If the bar was in upside down I am pretty sure it would interfere with the sub frame.

[Lou's Comet]

When i mocked if up the the other day with the suspension pretty much neutral the bar was within 1/8” of the strut rod. Itjust seems wrong.

If the bar was in upside down I am pretty sure it would interfere with the sub frame.

The angle looks wrong, should be parallel to the strut rod? Are you sure the links are the correct length? They look short but hard to get perspective in the pictures. If the link was a little longer wouldn't it give you more clearance between sway bar and strut rod? And put them closer to same angle?

Just something to think about..

Lou

[A/FX]

When i mocked if up the the other day with the suspension pretty much neutral the bar was within 1/8” of the strut rod. Itjust seems wrong.

If the bar was in upside down I am pretty sure it would interfere with the sub frame.

Mine is actually a little closer than the picture shows. The hex nut doesn’t help the situation but that is part of the adjustment sleeve. My adjustment is done like a turn buckle, RH and LH threads each end of the adjustment sleeve.
Jim

[Rootsy]

Long cold Winter here but I got a little warmth last week out of the blue. Tim Mills messaged me to let me know that my hood would be finished in a few days. Since he is half an hour from me I stopped by his shop and picked it up on Saturday morning. Nice guy and quality work. Now that Crites is kaput it is nice to know someone else is picking up to keep offering these parts. Hopefully more to come but he is a one man show.

[poboyjo65]

You forgot to mention that he use to be the fiberglass man at crites