Dan's 65 Cyclone project !

[bigdan]

I hear you, fellas! No slicks!

So now that the Cyclone is home, dry and patiently waiting, I'm trying to put a plan together. When i decided to redo my 53 "not-a-ford" pickup, I studied for quite a while and then went for it. Other than hardware and little items, I grabbed everything I needed, stuck it on the shelf and got busy. So, that's my plan here. But what is the plan?!

Really studying on suspension right now. The total control IFS and 4 Link look like they might be the direction I'm headed at this point, but one thing I'm sure on is I'd like to run is a 275 rear tire at a little lower than stock ride height. So I need some info. There's tons of it out there, but I like finding my own. I pulled a front wheel off my 53 (245/40-18 steelie, 18x8 with 4-1/2 BS) and stuck it on the rear. About 1/2" on the outside and plenty of room on the inside. So, with the right backspace, trimming off the bumpstop and an offset leaf (or link bar) it appears 275's (roughly 1.2"wider) might just fit without a minitub. I may have to narrow a rear to a ridiculously precise dimension, but that's to be expected anyway. Bear with me while I get a plan together!

More later -

Dan

[Rootsy]

I guess we will see what these cars can handle with just SFC, a healthy 331, 4 speed and 4.11s on monoleafs on whatever slick I can fit into the stock space FoMoCo provided. Cause that is my route.

I say write down a list of MUST HAVES and let that dictate the direction you go with the rest. For me I didn’t want to go hacking shock towers or cutting out the wheel wells for tubs or moving sub frames so that pretty much gave me a list of “what must be true” and the rest is imagination and wallet capacity…

[Jims65cyclone]

Hey, Dan, from the "for what it's worth" department, the link below is to a thread that contains even more links that summarize my tire/wheel journey. My car sits higher in the rear than it sounds like what you're shooting for, but I've had no problem with tire clearance in the rear. Picking the right combination for the front turned out to be trickier than the rear because they move. I was concerned with ball joint clearance and OD of the tire chosen. I didn't consider the overall width of the tread and the fact that the front end can dip slightly when turning where there is a dip in the road. I have occasional scrubbing problems on the front fenders that can be taken care of by stepping down one size on tire width. Again......for what it's worth.
https://www.cometcentral.com/forum/view ... 01#p110601

Jim

[bigdan]

Thanks for the input. Jim - lots of good info in that thread! Still studying and ciphering - once I start I don't want to back up.

On a side note; 65 bumpers. Are the Crites glass units the "correct" shape? Anyone with real world feedback?

Thanks -

Dan

[poboyjo65]

Has someone already mini tubbed it? Maybe just the pic but looks like the tub is right next to the flange of the frame.

Plans are great but it's good to keep an open mind.

[bigdan]

Has someone already mini tubbed it? Maybe just the pic but looks like the tub is right next to the flange of the frame.

Plans are great but it's good to keep an open mind.

Johno- I hear you on "plans!" At this point in life, though, I want to do things just once if at all possible .
Since this old girl was a surprise find, I've got a minute or two to finish a few other things up before I get started in earnest - my only firm plan currently is rust repair first, of course, and random parts round up. Eyes are wide open for taillight housings and bumpers mostly.

As for the wheel wells, no, never tubbed. The pic is kind of odd i guess; the bump stop is about 2" from the rail and the flange about an inch, maybe a little more. I wouldn't go any further than the frame rail.

Dan

[bigdan]

A little update. Since the 65 was a "surprise," I had a few other projects going on that I need to get sorted before I jump full tilt into the car. First I have to finish my Clausing-Colchester lathe "refresh" and get it back out of the way; almost finished. Then on to the 65! Rounding up random items also- was fairly lucky and Melvin's had 65 lenses on hand. Almost ready to get started .......

Dan

[saSSoman8810]

Those new lights are going to make them old bumpers you got from me look bad.

[bigdan]

Those new lights are going to make them old bumpers you got from me look bad.

I think I'll be able to make them work since they're straight enough. Unless someone has some old glass 65 bumpers laying around .......

Dan

[bigdan]

Still putting a plan together, getting the shop organized and rounding up parts. Braved the Atlanta traffic and picked up a floor pan from Melvin's; excited to see how the "all in one piece" works out.

Still looking for a few little odds and ends - trim pieces between the trunk and back glass, small hood trim pieces at the headlights, tail panel cyclone badge, etc. Won't be long and we'll be wide open!

More later -

Dan

[bigdan]

Slowly building up steam to get started on the 65. Finished the few shop projects that were distracting me and made a little room to work on the old girl...

So, before I attack the floor I wanted to do a little digging first. There are 2 areas of concern on the passenger c- pillar i need to investigate before I cut the floor out, so glass removal first. Glass channels all look good, so I'll keep digging in. Thoughts?







More later -

Dan

[A/FX]

The area on the C pillar is where the roof and quarter panel is seamed together, the factory welded it then covered the area with lead. The spot on the quarter panel in your picture must be from a previous repair, there is no factory seam or under structure in that area. When I stripped my car to bare metal my painter insisted I remove all the factory lead, he refused to paint over it because of contamination in the lead and it's effect on the top coat. Your picture is an example of that.
We used a modern filler on all the factory seams, it is much more compatible with modern primers and paints.
Jim

[StPro]

I would say the rear quarter panel is bad body work showing its ugly head. I have the same roof and window issue on mine but on the other side.

[bigdan]

Thanks for the input fellas. I don't know if I'll remove the lead, but the quarter issue will be fixed correctly for sure. Hung upside down to get a pic- just bad dent repair; I don't think the two are related now. Either way - with sub frame connectors it ought to stiffen up a bit; maybe a cage as well. We'll see what I find as I strip it down!



Dan

[Sugarmaker]

Dan,
I am not a painter, But the Comet we bought this year has paint issues every where there is body lead seams. The paint just looks like it cratered into the lead. If it wasn't for those areas the paint on "lil red" would be about a 8 out of 10. These seam areas bug me, but don't stop me from driving it. And I don't plan to spend $15K to get it painted. Just my 2 cents. Your doing good on your large Project!